The Sites of Spring

As the days lengthen and the skys brighten, there is no better time to shake off the last of winter and emerge blinking in the cautious spring sun. And what could be more fun than exploring ancient and neolithic standing stone sites? Spring's often the best time to see these sites, associated as they are with fertility and sun worship. Plus, bonus...healthy fresh outdoor air.

Julian Cope has assembled what many believe to be the definitive gazetteer of ancient sites and their associated folklore at The Modern Antiquarian. But to get a real feel for the enthusiasm he brings to what many could view as "collections of boulders"...check out his arcaheological rock n roll road trip from the BBC a good few years back.



There are plenty of neolithic/ancient sites within travelling distance of Inverclyde which we'll flag up over the next wee while, but we will also be showcasing a few places that are just a pleasant walk with some equally pleasant folklore. Auld Dunrod's facebook page will be glad to see yer photies and hear yer stories from wherever.

Inverclyde Times

About 5 years ago, we produced this wee magazine for local schools. Bit of fun. A more light hearted look at local history and folklore. That is, even more light hearted than normal.

Read Inverclyde Times here on the wonderful Scribd.

What? Not using Scribd? The worlds largest social reading and publishing app...like a big giant free book club? Treat yourself.

Paddy On The Railway

We could have marked St Patrick's Day with the legends of Patrick and Dumbarton, or stories of Irish migrant workers in the sugar warehouses...but instead here's another wee song from the Downriver cd, a broadside ballad which charts an Irishman's journey to Glasgow on the Greenock railway...which was of course largely built by Irish migrant workers. It is NOT the more popularly sung "Paddy on the Railway", the lyrics for this one being just a wee bit more variety theatre. See the broadside here.

A Paddy once in Greenock town

For Glasgow city he was bound

Staring all round and round

At length he saw the Railway

Then up the stair he did repair

And a sixpence paid down for his fare

And with great wonder he did stare

When he got on the Railway

CHORUS

Engine boiler water tight

Driving in with all his might

Upon my soul it was a sight

To see the Greenock Railway

The ladies were all Pat’s delight

And he sat down amongst their whites

I one was wrong but now I’m right

This morning on the Railway

A gent sat there with curled hair

At Paddy he began to stare

And said he did not pay his fare

For that class on the Railway

CHORUS

Paddy’s blood began to rise

And hit him then between the eyes

That morning on the Railway

The people all then made a fuss

To get the conductor in they must

Pat told him to enter if he durst

That morning on the Railway

CHORUS

But now in sight of Glasgow town

And at the station we came down

They looked if a Police could be found

To drag me from the Railway

But now my shillelah uick I drew

The conductor on the ground I threw

And then with legs so quick I flew

And left them on the Railway

CHORUS

Now to the harvest I will go

And tell them there of all I know

I’ll tell them of each friend and foe

That I met on the Railway

Then off to Ireland I’ll repair

And tell them all the wonders there

For never a one in county Clare

Ever saw or heard of a Railway

CHORUS

I Clydius

As news reaches us of a potential Roman coin horde discovered in Inverclyde...we explore the Romans links with our area...

The Romans never conquered Scotland.  The most powerful and efficient army on earth, the active hand of an Empire which spanned over two million square miles, was unable to sub-due a handful of un-organised tribes.  But if this is true, why then are the hills and valleys of this country dotted with the remains of Roman occupation? 

Julius Agricola was made governor of Britain in AD 79, and within a few years, the man who had successfully defeated the Iceni revolt under Boudicae, defeated the Caledonian tribes at the battle of Mons Graupius. 

In order to secure everything south of the Forth and Clyde, Agricola established garrisons in the territory of the Damnonii, the tribe who occupied most of modern Strathclyde, the most westernly of which was  south of Langbank, at Barrochan. Rediscovered in 1972, this fort was known in Roman times as the Clota Flumen,  the fort was most likely used during the subjugation of the Damonni settlements within the Inverclyde area. A number of bronze coins dated to the year AD86 have been uncovered here and it would seem that the fort was occupied at least until this date or shortly thereafter.

During this period, it is likely that there was some Roman naval presence on the river, and there has even been a suggestion that the Romans may have operated a dockyard somewhere on the firth, repairing ships stationed on the Clyde.

After the campaigns of Agricola, the Romans withdrew south again and within a few generations had begun work on the mighty Hadrians Wall. However around 144 AD, the Romans returned to Scotland and constructed a line of forts along a turf wall stretching between the Clyde and the Forth. Known as the Antonine wall, it was the northernmost frontier of the Roman empire, stretching from Bo'ness to Old Kilpatrick, just outside Glasgow.

In order to protect the western approaches to the Antonine Wall, two fortlets were constructed in the Inverclyde area; one on Lurg moor behind Strone, and the other at Outerwards, on the hills behind Skelmorlie. Each one was home to around fifteen Legionaries, most likely from the Second  Legion, whose purpose it was to watch the firth of the Clyde for possible raiding forces from the north.

The forts remained undiscovered until around fifty years ago, although the presence of Romans in the area found its way into the local folk memory. A medieval stone bridge outside Inverkip has for hundreds of years been referred to as the “Roman Bridge”, and the local ballad, “The Vision of Auld Dunrod”, thought to date from the 17^th century, speaks of Roman ships sailing up the Clyde. However, it was only through aerial photographs that the locations of the two forts were finally revealed.

Excavations by Frank Newall in the fifties yielded a number of interesting finds, now held by Glasgow University.  There is also evidence of a network of roads and signal tracks throughout the area, which linked the two forts with a larger site outside Bishopton. Over the years there have also been a number of other finds, including  a spearhead found in Gourock. However, perhaps the most significant find is that at both sites, there is some evidence that the forts were burned to the ground. 

Evidence suggests that sometime around 155 AD, a major revolt took place within Scotland against the armies of Rome. Many forts and fortlets of this period show evidence of burning and raising, and it is likely that this was a co-ordinated attack designed to have maximum impact. It worked. Occupation of Scotland seems to have dwindled after this period.

But the Romans  left behind them a legacy which was to shape Britain for centuries to come. Where once had stood forests, now lay straight roads, allowing for trade and easy communications. The Legions of Rome had brought with them crafts, jewellery and religions from the far corners of the Empire, re-shaping peoples perceptions of the world and their beliefs. There was no mass exodus of the Romans –they simply drifted away. But then, the Romans never conquered Scotland…they were just visiting.

When lo! Owr Gourock point he saw

A sicht o' meile pride;

There were twenty Roman ships an three

Cam rowin up the clyde

Then mariners and soldiers

They mingled on the shore;

These told of mountains, these of sea

And Isles ne'er seen before.

From The Vision of Auld Dunrod - anonymous

Local Roman Historian and archeaologist Louie Pastore has campaigned to get the site on Lurg Moor recognised as a world heritage site, and has also made a number of excellent short films exploring the Roman occupation on The Clyde. Enjoy...

Nazis Attack Greenock In Search of Holy Grail!

There is a long standing local story about a Nazi U-Boat which apparently managed to enter the Clyde in the midst of World War 2. Many believe that the submarine may have carried Nazi language specialist Otto Rahn, often associated with the Third Reich’s search for biblical artefacts (and the inspiration for the bad guy with the glasses in Raiders of the Lost Ark). 

At the time of the U-Boat’s mission, Rahn was believed to be involved in looking for the Holy Grail. It is theorised that Rahn may have been entering the Clyde in order to make his way across country to Rosslyn Chapel, a church built by the Knights Templar and frequently linked with the Grail. However, if Otto Rahn's intended destination was indeed the Templar Church at Rosslyn near Edinburgh, why come in from the opposite end of the country via the heavily defended Clyde? It is entirely possible that if Otto Rahn was on the mysterious U-Boat, he fully intended to start his investigations on the West Coast. Certainly, he need not go as far east as Rosslyn to look into the mysterious Knights Templar; the area surrounding the Clyde has more than it's fair share of Templar connections.

The Knights Templar have long been regarded by some as guardians of the Holy Grail. This  mysterious sect of warrior monks was formed in the mid 10^th century by a group of nine French Knights, and during the crusades of the middle ages, their order spread quickly throughout Europe, before finally being outlawed by the Church. Records tell us that the Knights owned a lot of the land around the Clyde, most usually towns and sites associated with the ancient Celtic church.

The Renfrewshire village of Houston takes it's name from Hu's Town, after Hugo De Padvinan, an 11th Century Templar Knight who built his castle there. One theory suggests that Hugo De Pavinan of Houston was in fact Hugh De Payens, founder and leader of the Knights Templar. Certainly, the similarities between the two names are striking, and De Payens visited Scotland around the time of Houston's foundation. It is in Houston that you can also find the remains of St Peters Well, a medieval water source thought to possess magical healing properties. There is a clear link here not only to the miraculous properties of the cup of the Holy Grail, but also to the Knights Templar, who venerate Saint Peter as their patron and protector. In Houston's old church there was an oil painting representing a Templar Knight and his lady, sadly however, the accompanying inscriptions have not survived the centuries intact. It is also worth noting that the old Houston Mansion House was originally home to an Order of Cistercian Monks. The Cistercian's were the forerunners for the Knights Templar, and many of the codes subsequently adopted by the Knights were developed by the monks. Two of the original nine templar Knights actually were Cistercian monks which leads many scholars to believe that the two groups are simply the military and monastic arms of the same religious order. In latter years, the two groups shared a kinship, linked by ties of blood and patronage. So close was this bond that any Templar who was expelled from his order was required to seek sanctuary in a  Cistercian monastery in order to rehabilitate himself.

It is said that the villages of Houston, Kilbarchan and Kilmacolm form a"Golden Triangle", an equilateral triangle with the River Gryffe at the apex. At this site by the Gryffe can be found an ancient Yew Grove over six hundred years old, thought to have once been used as a place of quiet contemplation for local noblemen. Previous to this the site was associated with pagan worship and indeed the Yew tree does have religious significance with druids, particularly in connection with prophecy. Many botanists now attribute this to the fact that in warm weather, the yew produces a very mild hallucinogen, ideal for visions. (Disclaimer - attempt this at your own risk...but do feel free to mail us with any interesting results)

This Golden Triangle is typical of the "ancient geometry" utilised by the Knights Templar and other pseudo-religious sects. It is likely that Templar noblemen, knowing the sites previous ritual significance adapted in for their own purposes. There are a number of other Templar clues scattered throughout the district.  Not far from Houston is the town of Johnstone; here can be found St John's Parish Church. St John is a hugely important saint for both Freemasons and the Knights Templar, and interestingly, the town of Johnstone lies on almost exactly the same latitude of Roslin in Edinburgh; Roslin lies at 55 51.15 and Johnstone at the sacred number 55 50. The line between these two latitudes was known as the "serpent rouge" or Roseline,  an ancient meridian once used for telling the time. Similar lines can be found running through hermetic churches across France, another country rich in Templar connections. Paisley Abbey also lies on this sacred latitude and interestingly, Hugo De Padvinan appears as a witness in the abbey's foundation charter.  Templar churches are also said to have existed at Killallan, Chapeltown and Capelrig. Just outside of nearby Bishopton can be found Rossland, another clear reference to the mystical roseline, and another indicator of the level of Templar activity within the area. But the most obvious remnants of the Knights Templar are to be found in Inchinnan

Before the reformation, Inchinnan's church belonged to the Knights Templar, tradition states that it was built around 1100. Not only does this tie in with the visit to Scotland of Templar leader De Payens, but it would also mean that the church at Inchinnan predates Rosslyn Chapel. This church, latterly All Hallows Kirk was eventually demolished during the expansion of Glasgow Airport. Subsequently, a number of Templar Knights are actually buried at the Renfrew end of Glasgow Airport runway. Entrance to this Templar Cemetery now requires the permission of airport security. A number of Templar tombstones were taken from the site and moved to St Conval's Church at Inchinnan, where they can still be seen.

Another less obvious Templar connection to the Clyde was the wartime presence of the Free French. This heroic order were set up by Charles De Gaulle, who was himself apparently a member of one of  the Knights Templar's (historically questionable) modern successors The Priory of Sion. The Free French Order of the Liberation deliberately borrowed organisational elements from medieval knights, a new chivalry serving a cause and a religious ideal; the freedom of France from the invading infidel. It is for this reason that De Gaulle adopted the Cross of Lorraine as the symbol of these new crusaders. The cross, commemorated locally upon Lyle Hill, is also the cross of the Knights Templar.

However, the Clyde's Grail connections run far deeper than associations with the Knights Templar. Many scholars believe that Dumbarton Rock, ancient court for Rhydderch Hael, King of Strathclyde may be the inspiration for the Arthurian legends of Camelot. Certainly, like Arthur, King Rhydderch was a King to the Britons, and the Welsh histories portray him as a warrior King who welded a magical sword. We will be looking at the West of Scotand's Arthurian links in more detail soon...

Templar Knights, Arthurian legends, sacred sites, it certainly begins to look as if Otto Rahn may indeed have had good reason to examine the Clyde in his search for the Holy Grail. Could it be that a vital Grail clue lies hidden nearby? Is there a connection to the mystical healing properties of Saint Peters Well? What secrets are buried beneath the runway at Glasgow Airport? It seems that the Clyde is just another crucial part of this esoteric puzzle, the full meaning of which is yet to be grasped. So in the meantime, its just fun to make stuff up.

It is worth noting that Rahn is often referred to as "The real Indiana Jones"...this rather misses the point that Indiana Jones was not a nazi. Magic Torch have assisted a number of Rahn historians with their researches, however, glamorous and interesting treasure hunter or not...Rahn was certainly a card carrying member of the SS...generally not considered a mark of good character. 

Read more about Otto Rahn in Fortean Times.
 

Read our pulp fictional account of Rahn's adventures "Blood on The Clyde" 

These diabolical dealings also form the backdrop for our comic Rowan Tree Legion...

 

Massive Sea Monster Terrorises Gourock!!

Well. Sort of.

Official records show, that in the summer of 1942, the carcass of a large unidentified creature was washed up at Cardwell Bay. Council Officer Charles Rankin was sent to observe the badly decomposed remains.

“Measuring 27-28 ft. long, it had a lengthy neck, a relatively small flattened head with sharp muzzle and prominent eyebrow ridges, large pointed teeth in each jaw, rather large laterally sited eyes, a long rectangular tail that seemed to have been vertical in life, and two pairs of “L”-shaped flippers (of which the front pair were the larger, and the back pair the broader). The head was comparatively small, of a shape rather like that of a seal but the snout was much sharper and the top of the head flatter. The jaws came together one over the other and there appeared to be bumps over the eyes - say prominent eyebrows. There were large pointed teeth in each jaw. The eys were comparitively large, rather like those of a seal but more to the side of the head. Curiously, its body did not appear to contain any bones other than its spinal column, but its smooth skin bore many 6-inch-long, bristle-like ‘hairs’ - resembling steel knitting needles in form and thickness but more flexible.”

Curiously, when Rankin cut open the beasts stomach, he found “a small piece of knitted woolen material as from a cardigan” and even more bizarre, “a small corner of what had been a woven cotton tablecloth - complete with tassels”. In Rankin’s opinion, the remains were that of a huge lizard, however wartime restrictions permitted him from taking any photographs of the creature. He rang the Royal Scottish Museum in attempt to convince them to examine the creature, but the museum were not interested. Scientific examination of the creature would have been unlikely during the war years, there was simply no time for such work. Consequently, the beasts remains were hacked into pieces and subsequently buried beneath the playing fields of St Ninian's school in Gourock, where they potentially remain to this day. However, Rankin removed one of the “knitting needle” bristles from the flipper of the creature, and he kept it for many years in his desk. It eventually shriveled to resemble a finely coiled spring.

Cryptozoologists suggest that the creature may have been a basking shark or even a puffer fish, but agree that the large pointed teeth of the beast would tend to suggest it was in fact one of the carnivorous shark species. If it was indeed a carnivorous shark, then the size estimated by Rankin would actually make it one of the largest sharks ever discovered, for even Great Whites rarely exceed twenty feet in length. Rankin himself remained unconvinced by the “shark theory”.

  

The mystery of “The Gourock Monster” was popularised in the late seventies when the story featured in an episode of “Arthur C. Clarke’s Mysterious World”. The Gourock section is about 3 minutes into the video. Children of the 60s and 70s may wish to view the whole episode to terrify themselves with the theme music.

You can see Clutha, the friendly river monster in our childrens book Wee Nasties

Also, over on my other blog, I've a wee fable featuring the monster

A video of the episode was on youtube for years, but has recently disappeared, new link below - Gourock part starts at about 22 minutes (though to be honest, it's all good!)

Arthur C. Clarke Mysterious World S01 E02... by kaanozten


The legend of the Gourock monster also crops up in a childrens book I've written, The Superpower Project...

With the help of a wisecracking, steampunk robot, two accidental superheroes discover that they have inherited some amazing, if unusual, abilities. Computer whiz Megan can fly (mostly sleep-flying, but she's working on it) while her best friend Cam can (in theory) transform into any animal, but mostly ends up as a were-hamster.

Together they must protect the source of their ancestral powers from a wannabe evil mastermind and his gang of industrial transformer robots who've disguised themselves as modern art installations on their Greenock estate.

It isn't easy to balance school and epic super-battles, not to mention finding time to search for other super-talents and train with their Mr Miyagi-esque were-tiger coach.Can Megan and Cam beat the bad guy, defeat his robot transformers and become the superheroes they were born to be?

The Superpower Project is available from Floris Books / Kelpies.

Child of the Dead End

In our Grand Literary Tour post a few weeks ago, we mentioned the work of Patrick MacGill, an irishman who lived in Greenock for a time, working on the railway. While working here, MacGill sold books of his poetry door to door, eventually attracting the attention of Neil Munro, author of Para Handy who set him on the road to a literary career. His most famous and critically acclaimed work was the autobiographical Children of the Dead End.

BBC Scotland showed a "docudrama" of his life and times this weekend. The programme is currently available on BBC iplayer.

Worth a wee watch.